BY JOHN FITZGERALD
Kilkenny is renowned for its medieval heritage, but it also plays host to the wonders of nature. And you don’t have to stray too far from the city limits to find both. If you wish to connect with the past and savour the joys of our natural heritage at the same time just take a stroll along the Canal walk.
You begin on the promenade at Canal Square, where you see the lovingly preserved old gate lodge. Depending on when you arrive, you could find yourself besieged by a flock of friendly pigeons, so tame they waddle up in the hope of a morsel or two. Don’t worry if they come diving out of the sky towards you. They avoid contact at the last possible moment: the maneuverings of the most advanced man-made aircraft doesn’t come close to their own aeronautic prowess!
The walk runs for a bit parallel to a wall under the Castle, but you soon find yourself deep in lush country parallel to the River Nore.
Along the route you can take in the treasures of nature; all around you the multi-shaded greens of heath and heather, sunlight streaming down through leafed canopies…mentally soothing water courses, and birdsong to rival a Gospel Choir: a host of avian crooners chirp; whistle and warble in homage to life itself.
You can pause by a gently gushing stream or rest on one of the many stone or wooden seats that line the walk.
Locals have been walking the route since it opened in 1763. The promenade quickly became a venue for recreation. Over the decades musicians flocked to it to entertain and citizens gathered to hear bands play, see magicians perform, hear poets reciting, and see dramatists turn the welcoming space into an open-air stage.
In the absence of cultural activity, people stood to watch hardy folk swim in the Nore. The swimming was officially frowned upon and the custom faded out, only to return in recent years, with fellows diving in over John’s Bridge, frightening the ducks and discommoding the elegant swans.
I took a notebook one day to jot down a few impressions of the Canal Walk. It’s a feast for the senses. You can escape city life and noise within minutes. I saw the remnants of old mills and the tangled ruins of buildings dating to a bygone age. A smattering of wild flora quivered and beguiled amid the fragrant woodland aromas. There’s a lovely view from the Pedestrian Bridge, from where I spotted a chubby little short-tailed dipper perched on a rock by the riverbank.
It seemed to be eying the water, contemplating its next move. If I had waited a while longer I might have seen it “go under” in search of prey, as I know this bird tends to do.
I walked on further, listening to birdsong and enjoying the clean un-spoilt air. I spied a few exotic bird houses, a gift to the singers, I fancied, in return for their sweet notes and choruses. On my return across the same bridge I caught sight of a mighty Kingfisher, the highlight of the walk for me. It sat patiently, but unlike the dipper earlier it made a decisive move as I watched it, seemingly changing its mind about its location and taking flight.
As the sun faced me, I had to squint to see the flash of bright blue and orange plumage as the stately bird flew at low altitude, almost flicking the water, and disappeared under the bridge where I stood.
A privilege, I thought, to see this masterpiece of nature.
More recently I accompanied the Kilkenny Heritage Walkers on a trek that took in part of the Canal Walk but further on diverted to a hallowed heritage spot.
The ruin of the 11th century Parish Church of Kilmolloga stands a mile south of the City, beside the Kilkenny-Waterford railway line. Historian Paddy Neary; who gave a talk to the large group on the day; explained that the gables of the old church were long gone; but that the walls remained, albeit in poor shape and overgrown with weeds.
He pointed to a Celtic window that survives in the North Wall.
The group found a strange sense of peace and tranquility, as if an aura of sanctity lingered at the site.
So, when you take off along the Canal Walk, you might find yourself stepping back in time, even as you bask in the glow of Arcadia.
