By John Fitzgerald
The Kilkenny Heritage Walkers rounded off a year of enthralling and highly informative talks and walks in festive style:
The group organized a beautifully choreographed visit to some of the much-loved churches of the City, with special emphasis on the cribs to be seen within these hallowed centres of devotion.
Marianne Kelly brought all her celebrated knowledge of Kilkenny’s spiritual heritage to bear in her presentation, which took the form of a “rolling talk” that began at St Patrick’s church, continued at the Capuchin Friary, went from there to the Dominican Black Abbey and the towering St. Mary’s cathedral, on to St. Canice’s Catholic church, before concluding at the world-renowned St. Canice’s Cathedral.
Marianne opened her well-researched address with an insight into the origin of the Christmas Crib tradition itself. Francis, the great Patron saint of Animals and Ecology is believed to have initiated the custom, fashioning the first crib in the central Italian town of Greccio in 1223 in an effort to re-focus on the essential spiritual meaning of Christmas, to counteract the trend towards materialism that was evident even back in his day.
So, the image of Baby Jesus was placed in the crib between a cow and an ass. Within a few years, the idea had caught on and spread throughout the Christian world.
Standing in the flicking luminescence of the crib at the Capuchin Friary, Marianne connected to a past that, though beyond recall, has much relevance to today’s troubled world where a spiritual void has opened up in so many lives.
She spoke of the simplicity of the crib scene, the humble setting for a great story of hope and a better life after this Vale of Tears…the child shielded by innocent animals gathered about, the loving Mary and Joseph, and the Magi calling to that nativity scene all those centuries ago… just as the Heritage Group set out on its own symbolic visit to cribs so far removed from the actual one of 2000 years ago, and yet so powerfully evocative of that ancient mystery.
She also enlightened listeners on the history of the sacred buildings in which they had gathered…the late 19th century St. Patrick’s, with its barrelled wooden ceiling, ornamentally stunning altar, its other-worldly stained glass and the striking array of statues. The one of St. Joseph especially catches the eye.
Marianne alluded to the equally ornate high altar section at the Friary, a church established in the second half of the 1800s and noted for its captivating arches, columns, and tranquil side chapels. A painting overlooking the altar provides an apt backdrop, and among the statuary is the harrowing depiction of Christ having fallen from the cross, encircled by grieving women.
The Black Abbey, standing since the mid 13th century, is a time capsule replete with antiquities. The building itself survived a succession of plagues, wars, and natural disasters to still be with us in the 21st century.
Sacred vessels famously floated away from it during the 1947 flood and pictures show the friars taking to boats.
Marianne drew gasps of surprise and admiration when she pointed to a preserved statue of St. Dominick, which survived despite having served as target practice by Cromwell’s troops in 1650!
St. Canice’s Catholic Church was built in the early 19th century, a remarkable achievement in its day as the parish had to move Heaven and Earth to fund its construction. Over the decades it has been refurbished and upgraded, always delicately so as not to detract from the oasis of peace within its walls or the architectural intricacy that remains intact and lovingly preserved.
The 13th century St. Canice’s Cathedral has the distinction of being the second oldest cathedral in Ireland, famed especially for its round tower and the fact that one of the accused in the case of Alice Kyteler agreed to help repair the church ceiling as atonement.
Having taken the walkers to see the crib at St. Canice’s, Marianne indicated the many sights open to a visitor, including the 16th century monuments and a range of attractive stained glass designs that could have been crafted in Heaven itself.
As the group prepared to leave this historic church that could double as a museum, it caught sight of a second crib. The first one was displayed in an open space, with life-life figures in the straw laid on the floor.
But this second one was a kind of “alternative crib”, the figures metallic in appearance and looking a bit like robots in a sci-fi setting, calling to mind Cat Stevens’ song A Spaceman came travelling, that cast the nativity scene in terms of an extraterrestrial visit.
The tour complete, the walkers duly disbanded, but not before thanking Marianne Kelly for a noteworthy insight into a great Christian tradition. Her presentation also underlined the importance of the city’s built heritage and the continued relevance of spirituality in today’s strife-torn world.
The Kilkenny Heritage Walkers will resume their trips down memory lane in the New Year, setting off most Saturdays at 11.am, from the Horse Box on the Parade.
