– Where “Eternity is No Burden”
BY JOHN FITZGERALD
As the resting place of the original Santa Claus, it is hardly surprising that Jerpoint outside Thomastown attracts upwards of 40,000 visitors each year. But Jerpoint has other attractions to equal this claim to fame. It is classified as a “ruined town” and contains some of the most remarkable remains of our Celtic past to be found in Ireland.
Jerpoint Abbey is more than eight centuries old. It has acted as a magnet for tourists and the level of interest in its history and Hiberno-Romanesque architecture has never been greater.
The once thriving town of Jerpoint no longer exists, apart from church ruins, the gable of an old tower, and a heap of stones. A stump of a castle stands near the site of the ancient Market place. Fragments of what could have been the wall of a dwelling house have also survived.
The stones offer a faint outline of the streets, lanes and alleyways that gave way to oblivion when disaster struck at the heart of Jerpoint. Plague wiped out its inhabitants in the Middle Ages and the ravages of war in later times destroyed it completely. It was simply abandoned, and is a rare example in Ireland of a “vanished town.”
According to local folklore, and some historians, it was within the nearby church to the West of the abbey that Saint Nicholas was buried, after crusading Knights exhumed him at Myra and re-interred his bones at Jerpoint. His gravestone is there for all to see. Overlooking his grave is a horizontal sculptured slab depicting a monk in habit and cowl.
Jerpoint Abbey presents a majestic sight. Located on the banks of the River Arrigle about a mile outside Thomastown, its spectacular central tower with battlements has impressed visitors for centuries. Donall McGhiolla Phadraig, the King of Ossory, built the abbey in about 1158. Benedictine monks moved in, and the Order maintained its presence there until the Cistercians took it over a few decades later.
By 1228, it had a community of 36 monks and 50 brothers in residence. It became a hive of activity and a renowned centre of learning. Gardens, watermills, a hospital, granaries, and stables sprang up, and people arrived from all over Europe to study at the abbey. Ancient coins unearthed in the locality demonstrate its international profile: They bear the stamps of almost every land on the continent.
Among the abbey’s most distinguished visitors was King Richard II, who relaxed in its guest quarters in 1394. He praised the high standard of accommodation provided by the monks. The Cistercians, though, extended an equally warm welcome to beggars and felt that hospitality was a vital part of their ethos.
Their compassionate natures made little impression on Silken Thomas, who confronted his enemies, the Butlers, at Jerpoint in 1534. He massacred half the town’s population before setting fire to its buildings. It never recovered from this onslaught. An Ordnance Survey map of 1839 marks the sites of 25 houses, but all traces of these have since disappeared.
Thomas left the abbey itself untouched, but six years later, Henry VIII dissolved it. The Abbot, Oliver Grace, was thrown out of the only home he knew, along with all the monks. Jerpoint Abbey was leased to James Butler, the 9th Earl of Ormonde. For the next hundred years, it remained the property of the House of Ormonde.
Both the town of Jerpoint and its once proud abbey seemed to have faded into history. But in 1852, the newly formed Kilkenny Archaeological Society set itself the task of “arresting the decay at Jerpoint.” An architect drew up a report on the state of the abbey, stressing the importance of “repairing the present dilapidations and preventing further injury to this important and beautiful structure.”
Funds were raised to help preserve the abbey for future generations. In 1882, thanks to dedicated lobbying by the Archaeological Society, the Commissioners of Public Works moved in, and initiated further restoration work. Today, Duchas is responsible for its upkeep and preservation.
So what’s to see at Jerpoint? After you’ve paid your respects to “Santa”, you can enter the abbey grounds and be overwhelmed by the tower that dominates the skyline, supported by four large pillars. You will see the six gigantic arches, the four Cistercian side chapels, and the stone carvings that inspired artist Tony O’ Malley in his youth.
And Jerpoint is a virtual showcase of medieval art. In the chancels and aisles, you will find intricate depictions of saints, monks, and knights in chain armour, bishops wielding floriated croziers, and, interestingly, lords accompanied by their wives or mistresses.
Cloaked figures sporting broaches and mystical insignia adorn the tombs. The rose, treasured emblem of the Tudor family; is a common theme; and animals pose amidst the human images: Dogs and monkeys abound, and mythical creatures vie for one’s attention.
There are carvings of legendary women, including Catherine of Alexandria. The tomb of the harpist William O’ Holohan has proven popular with tourists. The carvings paying homage to his happy life helped to boost the morale of monks in the abbey. The artwork on the tombs has been compared to that contained in the Book of Kells.
In the chancel, you can admire faded wall paintings- stylized portraits of saints. You can see the long nave and re-trace the steps of monks who descended the night stairs to sing, or celebrate Divine Office.
A word of caution: When you call to Jerpoint, don’t allow your mind to wander! There is the legend of a monk who seems to have entered a time slip. His encounter with the supernatural is alleged to have occurred sometime in the 13th century. On a summer evening, he decided to sit down in the abbey garden to contemplate the meaning of eternity.
He meditated on the concept of eternal life, and wondered why anyone would wish to be around for so long. Then a bird singing distracted him. He looked up at the songster and listened to its sweet music. After what seemed like a few minutes, the abbey bell rang for prayer. The monk strolled back to the abbey. But as the chapel drew near, he met two monks he had never seen before. Puzzled, he entered the chapel, only to find that he recognized none of them.
When he started to question his predicament, the other monks looked confused and denied all knowledge of him. Then, a very old monk arrived on the scene. He said he remembered hearing many years earlier about a monk who had ventured into the abbey garden and was never seen again.
According to one historian, the moral of the story appears to be: “If you’re happy, even eternity is no burden.”
A point to ponder when you visit Jerpoint Abbey…
(My book Invaders tells the story of how a small band of men and women in 1650s Ireland faced one of the most powerful armies on the planet. Available from Amazon and Kilkenny bookshops)
